The Village Pub [Woodside]

2009.03.22
*****

Just came back from this restaurant, the general feeling is we'll be back: finally some *good* "white" food that's decently close!

A handsome restaurant, a bit traditional with the purple plush chairs. There was a roaring wood fire pit that separated the spacious dining room from the kitchen, where hunks of slightly-sourdough bread stashed in wait. All the diners looked like they are from Woodside (which is, btw, secluded, green, and filled with jaw-dropping gated Mansions), that is to say very old and very white. But the service was anything but stuffy and old; our waitress Christine struck up casual and friendly conversations and made hearty recommendations.

Her first one proved on the mark: House Charcuterie assortment: rabbit rillet, salami, mortadella, ciccioli, coppa di testa, pork rillet, duck liver mousse, country pate. All very delicious, surpassing those from Perbacco - our recent italian fav - with well matched accoutrement's.

Asparagus salad with house smoked sturgeon. I was intrigued by the sturgeon and it was indeed a great success, fully flavored, gently smokey, and paired with first of the season asparagus.

There were, as usually the case, more interesting appetizers than main courses. So I went for 3 starts with no main course, against Amnon's 1-1. Very graciously, and since we inquired about it, Christine added a small portion of the House Made Tagliatelle, Sautéed Winter Chanterelles, Brussels Sprouts and Pancetta for Amnon, so he wouldn't be lonely when I had my Spring green garlic soup and sauteed rock shrimp. Very nice of them, and a good strategy to remember next time ;).

Anyways, the tagliatelle was above average, but the overall dish lacked direction, and like my soup was too salty. The garlic soup was made with the young shoots of garlic and Christine promised it'd be very mild, but it was still too pungent by a handful. The rock shrimps were fantastic though. The dish would've worked better as shrimp with a green garlic sauce.

Three Preparations of Spring Lamb: Roasted loin, Grilled chop, Braised shoulder. Very rare, and tender rack, fabulous slices of loin roast with a simple, solid sauce, and excellent spiced braise that was formed into a patty and lightly browned again.

My appetizer "main course" was the day's special. Three Chestnut ravioli in truffle cream sauce, large enough to be an entree (perhaps they gave me extra portions?). Sweet silky chestnut puree were separated by a thin chewy pasta skin from the full-throttle truffle sauce, a ravenously delicious combination. No weak, second-hand truffle shavings that tastes of boiled rubber, here were the real deal, in suitable dosage to play the co-starring role. A proper way to end the truffle season, by any means.

Dessert was, I felt, not the strength of the meal. Buttermilk vanilla panna cotta with mandarin orange "soup", almond cake, orange sorbet. The panna cotta came rich and thick, but the cake pairing took away its wonderfully creaminess and added nothing in return. Nice orange sauce.

We also had some fries (A's cravings) and a dill-cream topped "borscht" soup amuse-bouche, and two chocolate truffles to sweeten the deal at check time. (though they really could've left out the peanut-butter truffle!)

Overall, the restaurant lived up to its one-star. I have to say in almost all cases so far, the Michelin stars has provided fair guidance.

$141 for 2