Poggio Trattoria 2005.09.02 -- *****

Don't let the gas-lamped outdoor seating fool you (at least I don't think Italy uses gas lamps), as soon as you step into this joint, you will feel it. This, is old-world. Arching ceilings, sumptuous dark woods, airy corridors lined with plush lounge chaises. Wrinkled petite ladies chatting dramatically, waving glasses of vino ever so elegantly, poster-worthy faces both of the fair and fairer sex that are unmistakably classic roman-greco. And the owner/manager, oh you can't find a man more old-world than him. Its not the gray medium length hair combed to a T, or that pair of antiquated glasses, or that impeccable suit; the air of European-ness defies my attempt to explain. As if squeezed between the lines of his wrinkles are all the history and culture of his homeland. And his restaurant is just the same.

If it sounds like I had a lot of time to check out the scene, it is because we are 45 minutes *early* for our reservation. So it is understandable they took 15 minutes to seat us, at the end of the corridor facing a browned tapestry of italian cypress.

1. Sesame bread roll, crusty bread roll, rosemary focaccia. No these are not ordered items. But good bread is most elevating about an italian or french place. The focaccia would have been good for most restaurants, but it pales in comparison to the rolls. Let me put it this way, we had our bread basket refilled 3 times, once running the kitchen out of sesame roll which means I get to taste a fresh batch right out of the oven. Definitely a brilliant start.

2. Wine flight: Italian whites. Merely for conversation, I mention that it is a bit strange to come to an italian restaurant and not have wine. Ends up I got a wine flight at my friend's insistence. White is a natural choice. I must say they quite sucked, even for a non-connoisseur like me. However it is cheap, 12 bucks for 3 glasses.

Let me take a sidetrip to mention our waitress. She is not like the typical sweet-talking-constantly checking-on-you kind of waitress. She is not excessive with her smile, nor overly honeyed in her speech. But she is on top of all the details, keeps the pace just right, and knows just when we need something and when we need private time. And she carries herself with such a quality of confidence that some may call arrogant or aloof, but I like her.

3. Heirloom, basil, hand-pulled mozzarella. My friend calls this (or the version he had last he was here a few days ago) the best margherita trinity he has had. With that kind of expectation I am underwhelmed but not by much. The basil is definitely a cut above the market variety, darkly purple and sweet and fragrant. Wonderful moz. But I do not think the tomato quite matches up.

4. Stuffed Zuccini blossom, sungold tomato. Good. Especially the sungold tomato coulis (or whatever the italian equivalent word is), with the bread.

5. Pork Chop with Grilled Peach. I don't remember how this was, because I was too busy eating my own entree.

6. Zuppa di Pesce (stew), tomato leek broth. My friendly waitress recommends this above the swordfish steak, and I am in the mood for a homie kind of dish. It hits the spot just right. Tender flaky fish, scallops, clams, wondrously tied together by the well-herbed broth. And of course, a bowl of stew just begs for more bread to sop it all up! I am overstuffed at the end of this.

7. Chocolate cake. My friend picks this in remembrance of a dessert he liked last he was here. But it turned out to not be the same item. I eat two bites, nothing out of this world and I had a stomach full of yummies to deal with already. He gobbles up it all, he is a chocolate fan.

Compared with the italian outting we did just two weeks before, Poggio is infinitely more Italian than Incanto, and in all other regards superior.

~$50 incl. tx/tip